Western Australia only has one and a half million people, and over a million of them live in Perth. W.A. is one of the few totally suitable environments for human infestation which hasn't been populated at all. It's the world's largest state, some of which is lush green forests, yet it's population density compares with that of deserts or ice caps. Sounds too good to be true. At least until you realise all of them live by the beach and crowd the surf with various water toys by 6 am.

Other than their hurry to get into the ocean before the sun gets too strong, Western Australians epitomise the laid back beach bum "throw another shrimp on the barbie" lifestyle. Many worldly things don't catch on here until long after Sydney, who in turn hasn't caught on until long after Europe and America. Hence the nick name; Wait Awhile.

The further south you go, the further back in time you go, approximately two years for every hour driving. Hence Margeret River was about five years behind Perth, Denmark about ten years back whilst Esperence is still back in the 1960's!

Denmark's south facing attitude is met by a stern Southern Ocean, cruel waves from a peaceful looking torquoise sea is an illusion not to be underestimated. The best wave sailing spot seemed to be Lights Beach. Further south in Esperence the waves are incredible, some of the most powerful in the world, hence the PWA World Cup competition of 1998.